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802-New England East

USA Climbing New England East (NEE) region 802 is VT, NH, ME, and eastern MA.
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2018.06.19 - updated sport & speed nationals info

 

 

2018 SPORT & SPEED NATIONALS

   Info

Link to Youth Sport & Speed Nationals Info  


Registration

Link to Nationals Registration page

Unofficial Registration & Waiver Report for 801 & 802 


2018 SPORT & SPEED DIVISIONALS

   Date(s)

Sat June 16th & Sun June 17th, 2018 


Location  

Central Rock Gym | Randolph MA      
445 High St, Randolph, MA 02368    781-885-2120

  Map  

Parking and Gym Entrance Map


Registration

Please see the Divisionals Registration page  
for all registration details, including deadlines.

Unofficial Registration & Waiver Report:   801 & 802
Competitors should complete online waiver if the 
report above indicates they are missing a waiver.


Schedule
 

Schedule and Format doc 
(times subject to change)


Qual Running Orders  

SPORT Qualification Round Running Orders
SPEED Qualification Round Running Orders

 

Sport Finals
Stacking

 

Single ISO open/close (see schedule)
Wave#1 MJr, FJr, FYB, MYC, MYD
Wave#2 MYA, FYA, MYB, FYC, FYD
(slightly different than qualification round)


Sport Finals
Running Order
 

Reverse order of qualifier rank for those
in the top 10 of qualifiers.  (Top 11 for FYB,MYB)
   10th place climbs 1st...
   9th place climbs 2nd...
   ...
   1st place climbs 10th.

SPORT Final Round Running Orders


Volunteers  

Volunteer Signup link
Many, many volunteers needed! Thank you!

 

 

 

2018 SPORT & SPEED COMPETITION SCHEDULE

Feb 17
to Apr 29
  Sport Local Comps

(some might limit the number of competitors, 
so check the info pages and register early. 
walk-in registration might not be available.)

   

Feb 24

White Mountain School - Bethlehem, NH

Info/Registration
 
  Mar 10

Boston Rock Gym - Woburn, MA

Info/Registration
Volunteer Signup

 
  Mar 24

Metrorock - Everett, MA
** Flash Format

Info/RunningOrders
(registration closed)
 

Mar 31

Brooklyn Boulders - Somerville, MA
** Modified Flash Format

Info/Registration
Note: pre-registration only
(no day-of registration)

 
  Apr 7

Salt Pump Climbing - Scarborough, ME
** Flash Format

Info/Registration
Volunteer Signup
(reg closes Thu Apr 5 @ 6pm)

 

Apr 14

North Country Climbing Center - Lisbon, NH

Info/Registration
 

Apr 28

Evo Rock & Fitness - Portland, ME

Go to 4/28 on calendar
for Info/Registration
Pre-registration only.
Two sessions, and max
50 competitors per session.

 
March 16-17
 

Sport & Speed Open National Championships

Info at usaclimbing.org
 
May 12-13  

Sport & Speed Region 802 Championships
Evo - Concord, NH

Results
 
Jun 16-17  

Sport & Speed Division 8 Championships
Central Rock Gym - Randolph, MA

(see "Divisionals" section above)

 
July 12-15  

Sport & Speed Youth National Championships
Stone Summit - Kennesaw, GA

Info at usaclimbing.org
 

 

 

 

2018-2019 PRELIMINARY SCHEDULE DATES

Sep-Nov, 2018 - Bouldering local season
Dec 8/9, 2018 - Bouldering Regionals (location tbd)
Jan 12/13, 2019 - Bouldering Divisionals (location tbd)
  (nationals dates have not been announced)

mid-Feb-Apr, 2019 - Sport & Speed local season
May 18/19, 2019 - Sport & Speed Regionals (location tbd)
Jun 15/16, 2019 - Sport & Speed Divisionals (location tbd)
  (nationals dates have not been announced)

 


WHY DO CLIMBING COMPETITIONS REQUIRE SO MANY VOLUNTEERS,
EVEN WITH ALL THE REGISTRATION FEES?

In part, this is because climbing competitions involve a new, unique "field of play" every time:

  • climbing "field of play" is a set of never-before-seen routes/problems
  • large majority of comp registration fees goes toward their creation
  • extensive (volunteer) resources required to run a fair comp: judges, iso, etc.

Most other sports use the same standardized, unchanged fields/venues over and over. Although these fields/venues require maintenance, it isn't many thousands of $ to build the "field of play" each and every event. Climbing comps require a large routesetting crew and 6-7 days of shutting down all/part of a revenue-generating climbing gym, followed by a competition in a sport requiring serious liability insurance for the gym and USA Climbing.

Most other sports don't have the human resource requirements either. The entire onsight format depends heavily on having iso run properly, and well-trained judges to make fair and clear assessment of a climber's achievement. To run a fair and safe comp for 250 competitors, that respects the effort that our climbers have put into training, requires almost 200 slots to be filled, nearly a 1:1 ratio. In comparison, a swim meet for over 200 competitors at an 8-lane poll needs less than 15 volunteers+officials; a soccer tourney with 200 players requires 20-40 vounteers+officials. A climbing competition therefore requires 5X to 10X the number of volunteers as these other sports. While other sports can have a small fraction of families helping at the competitions, youth climbing events need to have most families involved in at least one volunteer role.

The quanity of volunteers is partially driven by the need for coverage -- to ensure volunteers have the ability to watch their climber, and their climber can be watched. It's important that they can briefly step away from their assignment to watch, while still ensuring a level of consistency in judging. The number of slots are sized to allow this coverage, and to meet the standards of quality and fairness expected.

That's a quick outline of some reasons why the climbing comps require a registration fee AND require heavy volunteer participation from the parents. A reasonable expectation is that each climbing family provide at least one volunteer in each of the bouldering and sport seasons.

Thoughtful planning of judge pairing so that volunteers can watch their climber, as well as putting less experienced judges with experienced judges, requires time. The earlier the signups are filled, the earlier that process can start.

The reality is:

  • competitors do pay a registration fee
  • on top of that, we still do need many, many volunteers for these comps
  • often, we don't get enough volunteers for these comps signed up early enough
  • but we can help make that change!

Thank you!
-Your friendly (volunteer) Regional Coordinator crew

 

 

 

MULTI-ZONE SCORING SYSTEM FOR BOULDERING

We recommend before attending regionals, all competitors, coaches, and parents
      - read the explanation regarding the NEW Multi-zone scoring format 
      - and watch the new Bouldering Rules video.
The multi-zone scoring format will be used for all Bouldering Championship events: Regionals, Divisionals, Nationals (Youth & Open).

No experience is necessary to judge bouldering championship competitions, and the multi-zone scoring system is straightforward, much simpler than the old system. You'll be paired with another (experienced) judge you can learn from and can help ensure that you should be able to watch your climber. We will train you so that you feel ready!

 

 

2017-2018 BOULDERING COMPETITION SCHEDULE


Bouldering season

Sep 1
to Nov 29
  Bouldering Local Comps
(some comps might limit the number of competitors, 
so check the info pages and register early.
walk-in registration might not be available.)




Sep 9 Rock Spot Climbing - Boston/Dedham, MA

Gym Info/Register Waiver

Sep 16 North Country Climbing Center - Lisbon, NH

Gym Info/Register Waiver  
  Sep 23 Boston Rock Gym - Woburn, MA
(only limited number of registration slots left)

Gym Info/Register Waiver  
  Sep 30 Salt Pump Climbing - Scarborough, ME

Gym Info/Register Waiver  

Oct 14 Evo Rock + Fitness - Concord, NH

Gym Info/Register Waiver  
  Oct 21 White Mountain School - Bethlehem NH

Gym Info/Register Waiver  
  Oct 28 Petra Clifs - Burlington, VT

Gym Info/Register Waiver  

Nov 4 Evo Rock + Fitness - Portland, ME
(limited registration)

Gym Info/Register Waiver  
  Nov 11 Metrorock - Essex Junction, VT

Gym Info/Register Waiver  

       
Dec 9-10

  Bouldering Region 802 Championships
Metrorock - Newburyport, MA
(see above)  
         
Jan 13-14   Bouldering Division 8 Championships
Central Rock Gym - Warwick, RI
(info coming)  
         
Feb 2-3   Bouldering Open National Championships
Salt Palace Convention Center, Salt Lake City, UT
Info
 
         
Feb 9-11   Bouldering Youth National Championships
Salt Palace Convention Center, Salt Lake City, UT
Info
 
         

 

MEMBERSHIPS

USA Climbing memberships for the Sept 1, 2017 to Aug 31, 2018 competition year are now available.
    http://www.usaclimbing.org/members/membership_overview.htm
(Or click on the "JOIN or SUPPORT" link at the top of every usaclimbing.org page.)

RULES

In order to help avoid disappointment, confusion, or even disqualification, it is everyone's responsibility to know and understand the USA Climbing rules.

We highly recommend that everyone be familiar with the USA Climbing Rulebook.  There are some significant changes made to the rules for the 2017-2018 year, and the first section of the rulebook is "Significant Changes -- Overview."  This is a great place to start if you've read the rulebook before.

All climbers, parents, coaches, friends, and especially judges and belayers: please watch the Bouldering or Sport Rules video on the USA Climbing Rulebook page prior to attending Regionals, Divisionals, or Nationals.

If there is any climbers briefing in iso, it might be primarily for items specific to that competition or to that venue/gym.  The climbers briefing cannot (and will not) fully review all the rules. It is the responsibility of the coaches and climbers to ensure they know the rules.

WE NEED VOLUNTEERS!

All the USA Climbing Championship events run on volunteer power. All the judges, belayers monitors, escorts, runners, and scorers are volunteers and without them we cannot provide the successful championship event that all our climbers have trained so hard for!

Parents and friends who have volunteered in the past: thank you and yes, we will need your generous help again. In fact, please help spread the word among the others on your team and at your gym -- volunteering isn't complicated, it's satisfying, it's educational, and it's appreciated by all the competitors! If you can, bring along someone who hasn't judged before, and we'll help you show them how capable they are to help out.

Those who have yet to volunteer: please consider signing up to help your climber(s) at this championship event. You can be assured that you are just as capable as any of the amazing volunteers that we see consistently helping at all the USAC events. You'll watch the Bouldering Competition Rules Video (see link above) or the Sport Climbing Rules video (see above) beforehand, and we'll review things during a briefing the day of the comp. We will prepare you, and we will help you feel prepared.

We strive to arrange volunteer assignments so that you can see your climber(s) -- that's one reason we ask for the category of your climber(s). While we can't guarantee you'll see all of your climber's attempts, we've been successful with this in the past. In fact, the more volunteers we get, the more we can have duplicate judges and substitutes! Also, please also consider signing up for the session before or session after your climber(s).

 

ABOUT USA CLIMBING NEW ENGLAND EAST REGION 

The New England East region is one of two that make up Division 8:
    New England East (802): VT, ME,NH, Eastern MA   (our region)
    New England West (801): NY, CT,RI, Western MA  (neighboring region)

The New England East Regional Coordinators (RCs) are:
    Mark Vasta, Matt Ornes, and Shannon Lucia
    (see the Region 802 Contacts link on the right side of this page.)

Nearby Regions (for other local competitions):
    New England West (801): NY, CT, RI, Western MA
    Rustbelt (702): OH, PA, NJ

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Founding Partner: