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802-New England East

USA Climbing New England East (NEE) region 802 is VT, NH, ME, and eastern MA.
Please join the New England East Facebook group for news and announcements.

2018.08.15 - additions to 2018-2019 schedule info

 

2018-2019 SEASON SCHEDULE

Bouldering Youth Local Competitions
(* indicates tentative, pending signed agreement)

09/01/2018 - Brooklyn Boulders, Somerville MA  //  info+registration

09/29/2018 - Salt Pump, Scarborough ME  //  info+registration

10/13/2018 - Petra Cliffs, Burlington VT  //  info+registration

* 10/28/2018 - Challenge Rocks, Hingham MA   //   info+registration (limited registration)

11/03/2018 - Boston Rock Gym, Woburn MA  //  info+registration (limited registration)

11/10/2018 - White Mountain School, Bethlehem NH

(see 801-New England West schedule for other nearby local comps.
Local comps in any region will count toward Regionals eligibility.)

Bouldering Youth/Open Championship Competitions

12/08/2018 to
12/09/2018 - Bouldering Youth Regional Championships
Metrorock, Newburyport MA
(schedule and other info TBD)

01/12/2019 to
01/13/2019 - Bouldering Youth Divisional Championships
BETA Climbing + Fitness, Stamford CT
(schedule and other info TBD)

02/01/2019 to
02/02/2019 - Bouldering OPEN National Championships 
Deschutes County Fairgrounds, Redmond, OR

02/08/2019 to
02/10/2019 - Bouldering Youth National Championships
Deschutes County Fairgrounds, Redmond, OR

 

Sport & Speed Youth Local Competitions

(tba​)

 

Sport & Speed Youth/Open Championship Competitions

03/16/2019 to
03/17/2019 - Sport & Speed OPEN National Championships
location TBA

05/18/2019 to
05/19/2019 - Sport & Speed Youth Regional Championships
location TBA

06/15/2019 to
06/16/2019 - Sport & Speed Youth Divisional Championships
location TBA

07/11/2019 to
07/14/2019 - Sport & Speed Youth National Championships
Reach Climbing + Fitness - Philadelphia PA

 

 

 


WHY DO CLIMBING COMPETITIONS REQUIRE SO MANY VOLUNTEERS,
EVEN WITH ALL THE REGISTRATION FEES?

In part, this is because climbing competitions involve a new, unique "field of play" every time:

  • climbing "field of play" is a set of never-before-seen routes/problems
  • large majority of comp registration fees goes toward their creation
  • extensive (volunteer) resources required to run a fair comp: judges, iso, etc.

Most other sports use the same standardized, unchanged fields/venues over and over. Although these fields/venues require maintenance, it isn't many thousands of $ to build the "field of play" each and every event. Climbing comps require a large routesetting crew and 6-7 days of shutting down all/part of a revenue-generating climbing gym, followed by a competition in a sport requiring serious liability insurance for the gym and USA Climbing.

Most other sports don't have the human resource requirements either. The entire onsight format depends heavily on having iso run properly, and well-trained judges to make fair and clear assessment of a climber's achievement. To run a fair and safe comp for 250 competitors, that respects the effort that our climbers have put into training, requires almost 200 slots to be filled, nearly a 1:1 ratio. In comparison, a swim meet for over 200 competitors at an 8-lane poll needs less than 15 volunteers+officials; a soccer tourney with 200 players requires 20-40 vounteers+officials. A climbing competition therefore requires 5X to 10X the number of volunteers as these other sports. While other sports can have a small fraction of families helping at the competitions, youth climbing events need to have most families involved in at least one volunteer role.

The quanity of volunteers is partially driven by the need for coverage -- to ensure volunteers have the ability to watch their climber, and their climber can be watched. It's important that they can briefly step away from their assignment to watch, while still ensuring a level of consistency in judging. The number of slots are sized to allow this coverage, and to meet the standards of quality and fairness expected.

That's a quick outline of some reasons why the climbing comps require a registration fee AND require heavy volunteer participation from the parents. A reasonable expectation is that each climbing family provide at least one volunteer in each of the bouldering and sport seasons.

Thoughtful planning of judge pairing so that volunteers can watch their climber, as well as putting less experienced judges with experienced judges, requires time. The earlier the signups are filled, the earlier that process can start.

The reality is:

  • competitors do pay a registration fee
  • on top of that, we still do need many, many volunteers for these comps
  • often, we don't get enough volunteers for these comps signed up early enough
  • but we can help make that change!

Thank you!
-Your friendly (volunteer) Regional Coordinator crew

 

 

 

MULTI-ZONE SCORING SYSTEM FOR BOULDERING

We recommend before attending regionals, all competitors, coaches, and parents
      - read the explanation regarding the NEW Multi-zone scoring format 
      - and watch the new Bouldering Rules video.
The multi-zone scoring format will be used for all Bouldering Championship events: Regionals, Divisionals, Nationals (Youth & Open).

No experience is necessary to judge bouldering championship competitions, and the multi-zone scoring system is straightforward, much simpler than the old system. You'll be paired with another (experienced) judge you can learn from and can help ensure that you should be able to watch your climber. We will train you so that you feel ready!

 

MEMBERSHIPS

USA Climbing memberships for the Sept 1, 2018 to Aug 31, 2019 competition year are now available.
    http://www.usaclimbing.org/members/membership_overview.htm
(Or click on the "JOIN or SUPPORT" link at the top of every usaclimbing.org page.)

RULES

In order to help avoid disappointment, confusion, or even disqualification, it is everyone's responsibility to know and understand the USA Climbing rules.

We highly recommend that everyone be familiar with the USA Climbing Rulebook.  There are some significant changes made to the rules for the 2017-2018 year, and the first section of the rulebook is "Significant Changes -- Overview."  This is a great place to start if you've read the rulebook before.

All climbers, parents, coaches, friends, and especially judges and belayers: please watch the Bouldering or Sport Rules video on the USA Climbing Rulebook page prior to attending Regionals, Divisionals, or Nationals.

If there is any climbers briefing in iso, it might be primarily for items specific to that competition or to that venue/gym.  The climbers briefing cannot (and will not) fully review all the rules. It is the responsibility of the coaches and climbers to ensure they know the rules.

ABOUT USA CLIMBING NEW ENGLAND EAST REGION 

The New England East region is one of two that make up Division 8:
    New England East (802): VT, ME,NH, Eastern MA   (our region)
    New England West (801): NY, CT,RI, Western MA  (neighboring region)

The New England East Regional Coordinators (RCs) are:
    Mark Vasta, Matt Ornes, Shannon Lucia, and Eugene Ma
    (see the Region 802 Contacts link on the right side of this page.)

Nearby Regions (for other local competitions):
    New England West (801): NY, CT, RI, Western MA
    Rustbelt (702): OH, PA, NJ

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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